Reversible NH Summit Peak Hoodie
I'm really excited to be sharing with you all how I lined the zipper version of the New Horizons Designs Summit Peak Hoodie. The one I made was designed to be fully reversible, but if you're just looking to simply line with a comfy/soft fabric, the instructions outlined here will work for you!
Lets get started! First you'll want to grab your copy of the Summit Peak HERE! You can do the Women's or the Children's pattern - or both!
The only materials you'll need that aren't outlined in the pattern are:
- A reversible zipper. I purchased mine from wawak.com
- Fabric for the lining. You'll need extra front bodice A and B pieces, mirrored sleeves and a back bodice.
- (optional) Pellon SF101 interfacing for the Zipper - this is something I like to use to stabilize my zipper and isn't necessarily needed for lining the hoodie
Once you have all of your materials, print, tape and cut your pattern. Cut all of the pattern pieces as described. Cut an extra set of Bodice A and B pieces (or overlap your A and B pattern pieces to create a solid front), an extra mirrored set of sleeves and an extra back bodice in your lining fabric. You'll only need one set of cuffs and one set of waistband pieces.
I opted to have a pocket for my hoodie but I only cut one set to keep the front midsection of the hoodie from being too bulky -- I put the pocket on the outer (the one I thought I'd wear the most), and then the pocket can serve as a hidden pocket when you reverse your hoodie and wear the lining out.
Once your pieces are cut, you can start sewing your pieces together. I constructed my hoodie as described in the pattern tutorial until I got to the waistband pieces. Hold off on the waist. So for now, construct and attach your pockets, attach Bodice A to Bodice B for both sides (left and right), attach your sleeves and back bodice. Construct your outer hood and attach RST to the bodice. Sew down the side seams from the sleeve to the bottom of the bodice for both sides (left and right).
Next you'll construct the lining pieces exactly as you did the outer - remember, I'm only adding a pocket to my "outer" to avoid bulk but you could certainly try it (and report back so I know what you thought of it!!).
Now you'll take your 3 waistband pieces and construct them as the tutorial describes. Once constructed - and before attaching to the bodice - fold it in half, wrong sides together, and iron the center to create a crease. You'll need this crease to rest the bottom of your zipper in and ensure your outer and lining pieces all match up later. See below:
Unfold the waistband (like pictured above) and attach ONE side to the bottom hem of the outer bodice.
At this point, I like to stage my hoodie and make sure everything looks okay. My waistband crease is still in the middle and everything lays evenly:
Next we're going to attach the sleeve cuffs -- this is the trickiest part, in my opinion, so I went ahead and made a video for you to watch AFTER I explain my steps:
Pull the hoodie apart so that we can see the wrong sides of the lining and outer. The right sides of the bodice pieces should be staged together:
I personally like to attach my cuff to the "outer" sleeves first, but you don't have to. You can just sandwich the cuff between the two pieces. My tutorial will explain how to do it by attaching the cuff to the outer first:
Pin the sleeve to the sleeve cuff and sew/serge all the way around. Pull the sleeve out and check your work. Make sure your lining isn't twisted on the inside. Repeat for the other side.
Note: Sewing the cuff to the outer sleeve is optional but I find it easiest to do it this way. You COULD sandwich the cuff between the sleeves and only sew/serge once, but I find I'll miss a layer on occasion and doing it this way helps prevent that.
Here is the video I took (with the help of my six year old!) to help explain what I did here. Hopefully it helps!
Once the sleeves are complete, we only need to attach the zipper and finish the hood. We're almost there!
To reiterate what you're doing here and hopefully help you if you might be a little lost:
- Iron on your interfacing to the wrong sides of the outer and lining bodices where zipper will be attached (optional)
- Pin or clip the zipper to the outer layer ONLY. Rest the bottom of the zipper in the crease of your waistband
- Sew zipper on using a zipper foot. Make sure to backstitch at the bottom of the zipper/waistband.
- Pull the same side's lining around and pin to the zipper, RST. The opposite side's outer and lining are going to be sandwiched inside.
- Follow the same sewing thread line you used to attach the zipper to the outer to sew on the lining. Make sure you catch all of the layers!
- Pull right sides out and verify you caught all of the layers and that your zipper looks right
- Repeat for the other side
Pull the hoodie right sides out. Make sure you're happy with your placement. At this point, you could topstitch your zipper down. I chose not to.
Turn the hoodie inside out again. Pin the outer hood to the lining hood with right sides together. Sew or serge from one end of the hood to the other. Go slow over the top and stop to adjust if you feel like you're hitting zipper teeth.
Now you need to pull the entire hoodie out via the turn hole you left in the waistband. IF you forgot to leave a turn hole, go ahead and pick one now using a seam ripper. Once the hoodie is right sides out, check it over one more time. Stitch up the turn hole with your sewing machine and you're done!
A few things to note about my hoodie:
- I sized up one to accommodate the extra fabric and I'm glad I did, but I think I could've skipped sizing up and it would've been fine <3
- I only added one pocket to keep the midsection from being too bulky
- I had to add one inch to the bodice pieces to accommodate the size of my reversible zipper. The size 4 required a 29" zipper but I could only find 30" reversible zippers. Instead of cutting the zipper down, I added length to the hoodie.
- You can grab your copy of the pattern here: New Horizons Women's Summit Peak
- Order the fabric I used for mine here: Fabric Anthropology Pride and Justice
If you want to make a reversible pullover (non-zipper) hoodie, you can follow the same steps and just omit anything referencing a zipper. Following my cuffs/waistband steps will make your pullover hoodie reversible -- just don't forget a turn hole :)
Here are a few more shots of my hoodie, which I'll be quite honest, is my absolute FAVORITE SEW ever:
Thanks for sticking with me through this and I hope you all find it helpful!
Leave me a comment below and I'll give away a mystery pack of knit fabric and panels from the Fabric Anthropology Pride Round, which is open NOW and closes November 24!
If you have any questions, need further clarification, or if you'd benefit from more videos on this please leave a comment here or PM me on Facebook! I'd be happy to help!
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